Linguine with Clams (Linguine con le Vongole)

yield: Makes 4 to 6 servings

In contrast to American renditions of this dish, which often feature a heavy tomato sauce, the Italian version focuses on the pasta itself. The clam and tomato accompaniment is light and simple. Red pepper flakes add a bit of heat, but you can reduce the amount if you prefer less spice.

In Italy, the clams would most often be the small-shelled variety known as carpet-shells. In America, the best substitutes are cockles or Manila or littleneck clams.

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons kosher or coarse sea salt
• 1 pound linguine
• 12 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 pound New Zealand cockles or 24 Manila or littleneck clams, scrubbed
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1 (14-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes in juice, juice reserved and tomatoes coarsely chopped
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped

Preparation
In large pot over moderately high heat, combine 8 quarts of water to boil and salt. Bring to boil, then add linguine and cook to 1 minute short of al dente according to package directions (pasta should still be quite firm).

Meanwhile, in large sauté pan over moderately high heat, heat 6 tablespoons extra- olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add garlic and sauté until just golden, about 30 seconds. Add clams and 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes and sauté 1 minute. Add wine, tomatoes and juice, and 1/2 cup parsley and simmer, uncovered, just until clams open, 7 to 8 minutes.

Reserve 1/2 cup cooking water, then drain linguine and add to pan. Simmer, tossing occasionally, until linguine is just tender, about 1 minute. If necessary, add some of reserved cooking water to keep moist. Remove from heat. Add remaining 2 tablespoons parsley, 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, and extra-virgin olive oil, tossing to coat. Transfer to serving dish and serve immediately.